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Engine start, troubleshooting, part 2, fuel line (Land Cruiser 75 1HZ 4200cc diesel)

Updated: Aug 11, 2022


Land Cruiser 75 Trupy removes dirt in the shower, 30 years old this year


Welcome to the blog of a cameraman who works across Africa and Japan.

In this blog, the manager has posted the repair notes of his favorite Land Cruiser 75, Trupy, which he continues to ride in Kenya.

This car has become a hand and a foot for life in Kenya, and this year has entered the 30th year since production and the 19th year since purchase.

It works better and better, but like us, it seems that I sometimes get sick, and this time I had a problem with the fuel line, so I repaired it.


It will be a continuation from the last time, so please take a look there if you like.


All the work listed here is Kenyan and self-styled.

I would appreciate it if you could see that there is such a method for reference.


Please do all the work at your own risk.


Content of this blog

  1. Still remaining bugs

  2. Injector pump adjustment

  3. Replace the O-ring that caused the leak (injector pump)

  4. Injector pump air bite still occurs

  5. Fuel leak from fuel filter primer

  6. Filling the holes in the fuel filter primer

  7. Further fuel leak from injector pump

  8. Recommended for early repair

  9. Things that make me lonely when I'm in good shape

  10. What I think of a recent car


 


From here, it is a continuation from the previous blog


1, still remaining defects


I solved the problems of my Land Cruiser 75, Trupy, and fuel line one by one, and the condition gradually improved, but it was not completely fixed.


The fuel seems to reach the injector pump, but sometimes it seems that the fuel line is inflated.

Even though the fuel tank is full of fuel.


When the injector pump bites the air, it makes an unpleasant sound like "Bili-Bili-Bili-Bili ...".

Then, the power of the engine drops, and in some cases, the engine stops. It's very dangerous.


The injector pump, which should be filled with fuel, is filled with air and is not lubricated with fuel.

It is also not very good for pumps, as the metals come into direct contact with each other and cause rubbing and wear.

It is also the heart of a diesel engine, a pump that sends fuel to the engine at high pressure, and is expensive. If you don't fix it quickly, it will lead to a big expense.


For some time, some fuel was leaking from the injector pump adjustment knob.

That is the photo below.

The screw shown by the arrow is a screw often used to adjust the rotation of the engine.


It was a slow, minor thing that oozes out, so leave it as it is for several years. However, this leak has increased all at once recently.

First of all, I suspected that this leak was the cause and decided to repair it.



 

2, injector pump adjustment


The 1HZ injector pump has three adjustment screws for low rev idle adjustment, high rev adjustment, and where the fuel has exuded this time.


For a moment, I would like to introduce this exuded screw (above photo → screw).

Loosening the locknut and turning it clockwise increases the power of the engine but increases black smoke. Conversely, turning it counterclockwise reduces the power but cleans the exhaust gas. A screw that adjusts the flow rate of such fuel.

Find the best point by adjusting 45 degrees at a time. (I'm reading and executing something, but I think it's a reasonable adjustment angle.)


About 15 years ago, I investigated the relationship between the position of this adjusting screw and fuel efficiency.

What I learned at that time was that if you increase the power, the fuel consumption will naturally decrease, but it will not decrease as much as you expected, and if you decrease it too much, the fuel efficiency will decrease.

The reason why lowering the fuel consumption is worse is that the torque at low revs drops, and high revs are diversified with low gears to generate power. That seems to be the cause of the extra fuel consumption.

The reason why the fuel consumption did not decrease so much even if the power was increased is probably because it pulls the car with a squeak even at low revs.



 

3, replace the O-ring that caused the leak


I replaced the washer, but the leak did not stop. The cause of the leak seems to be the O-ring inside.

So, I went to an injector pump repair company because there were no parts.


The new O-ring on the left, the slammed O-ring on the right,


I heard that one O-ring cannot be purchased alone, so I bought a sealing set for the entire injector pump for about 2000 yen.

It will not be wasted because it will be used when servicing the injector pump, which will always be done someday.

The question is whether you can find it when you need it. I'm a little worried because it will be many years later.

These kinds of things are often found after purchase.


Replacing the O-ring is quick.

Simply remove the screw that is leaking fuel and replace the O-ring. When installing the O-ring, I applied a little grease and installed it.

After replacing the O-ring, the leak stopped completely.


The old O-ring that was removed should be an elastic rubber part. However, when I removed it, the cracks cracked and it was hard enough to think that it was a plastic part.

As you can see in the photo above, the new O-ring on the left is larger than the old one.

It seems that it has become hard and has shrunk after using it for many years.

In such a situation, it is natural that fuel leaks.

Will these rubber sealing parts have a lifespan of about 15 years?

It looks like it's okay to replace it after about 10 years.


Some of these small parts can be fatal to driving, but repairs can be surprisingly cheap and easy.

Is it because of the feeling that Japanese dealers are likely to pay tens of thousands of yen even in this case? There is no such thing in this country.


 

4, air biting of the injector pump that still occurs


So, when I started the engine thinking that the problem had been solved, the engine started, but air biting still occurred frequently.

It seems that the cause of the problem was not here.


What is the cause?


Diesel engines are sucking fuel from the fuel tank under negative pressure, like drinking a drink with a straw.

If the straw is punctured, the drink will be mixed with air.

A state in which a sound is heard, "Jurjuru ...!".

I suspected that there was a hole somewhere in the fuel line.


However, there was one place I had an idea of.



 

5, fuel leak from fuel filter primer


Fuel leaks when pumping recently



Parts to attach the fuel filter.

It seems to be a fuel filter primer.

This part is equipped with a manual pump to fill the injector pump with fuel.

Below the pump is a fuel filter.


The black pipe at the bottom center of the photo is the pipe that connects to the injector pump of the engine.

The fuel that has been filtered by the fuel filter flows through this pipe to the engine.



It is for expelling air from the fuel line when the fuel runs out. Rankle's diesel engine (1HZ) can pump fuel from the fuel tank to the injector pump by pumping this pump many times.


Recently, when I turned on this pump, I found fuel seeping out through the gaps between the metal parts.

In the above photo, you can see that the fuel is seeping out from the lower right.

When pressure is applied and the fuel seeps out, it means that there is a hole in that part.

The fact that there is a hole means that when the engine operates and the pressure inside the pipe becomes negative, air will enter from there.


I'm sure this bug will be fixed if you close it.


Well, should this part be replaced or repaired?


Looking up the price, it is said that one store has 8000 shillings, another store has 6000 shillings, and a dismantling company has 3000 shillings.

It's about 3500 yen in Japanese yen, which doesn't hurt even if you buy it.

In Nairobi, most parts are available for the same price as online, but this is expensive.

By the way, there are some that don't cost 2000 yen on the internet.


However, now that New Year and weekends overlap, it is necessary to wait about three days until parts are procured.



 

7, fill in the fuel filter primer


So, I decided to repair it for the time being, saying, "If it doesn't work, I should buy it!"


The first thing I thought about as a repair method was to fill the holes with solder.

However, it was rejected because it was an aluminum part.

I thought about aluminum welding, but I rejected it because the pump is likely to be damaged by heat.


As the method used for repair this time, we decided to adopt the method often used for filling holes in aluminum radiators.

It's a method that you often see in these countries, a work that imitates what you see.

What you do is to sprinkle brake pad shavings on the holes that cause the leak, and then apply superglue to the holes to harden them.

With this method, the pump will not be damaged by heat.


The material of the instant adhesive seems to be oil resistant, so it seems that there is not much problem even if it is used for the fuel line.

I don't know until I try it.


For the time being, I bought a brake pad for about 170 yen.

Shave with a gold file to make binder powder and fill the holes.

I dropped a few drops of superglue there.


Fill the gaps with brake pad shavings and add a few drops of superglue to them.


The above work was repeated twice or three times just in case.

The hole should now be completely closed.


Be careful not to inhale the shavings of the brake pads as they seem to be harmful to your body.

Even so, the shavings of the brakes and extremely small particles. It looks very good as a binder for instant adhesives.


After finishing the work, replace the parts and perform a pumping test.

With a good feeling, the fuel did not leak at all.



 

8, further fuel leak from injector pump


If you continue pumping, you will feel that the pressure is much higher than before.

Then, fuel leaked from another place this time.

The fuel is leaking from the injector pump while making a noise.

After pumping, the ground at the bottom of the engine room was stained with fuel.

This leak is strangely big that I haven't noticed until now.

Perhaps it will only leak under high pressure.

It is suspected that the malfunction during engine operation was caused by air entering from here.


The cause of the leak was that one of the fixing nuts of the injector pump was loose.


It was this nut that was loose, and if you look closely you can see that it is a reverse screw (from the injector service video)



The video of the injector pump service made by the manager himself was very helpful.

This loose nut was a reverse screw. Thanks to this video, I was able to make the right and wrong.


I managed to tighten the loose nut with a spanner.

The space is small, and there is enough space for a spanner.

I turned it one by one.

"Well, this should be okay!"

So, pumping again.


This time, even if pumping was continued and high pressure was applied to the fuel line, no new fuel leak was found, and it was confirmed that the leak at the leaked part had completely stopped.


This should have solved the problem, so I preheated and twisted the key.

The engine only turned about half a lap of the crank, and it started vigorously.


After a lot of hard work, the problem seems to have been resolved.

Two weeks after the repair, the problem has not recurred.


I'm looking forward to the instant adhesive and the repair of brake pad shavings, and how long it will last.

I feel like I'll have it for a long time.


 

9, recommendation for early repair


If there is aged deterioration related to gaskets, an opportunity to open something, or an opportunity to replace it easily, it seems better to replace it if it is 10 years old even if it is not leaked.


Also, if there is a leak in fuel or oil, it should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent any trouble.

Is it natural!


My car Trupy 75, transfer case oil and power steering oil, ooze out little by little, but sometimes I add oil and leave it for more than 10 years (cold sweat,)

Is it okay because the amount of leakage and reduction has not changed all the time?


Personally, I also think, "Is this just right?"

A car that is imperfect like a human being is more attached to me. (Bitter smile)


Isn't it a double standard that is different from what you are saying!


 

10. Things that make me lonely when I'm in good shape


And another car with wisdom that made the car in good shape.

The engine requires preheating only once in the morning, and if you twist the key, it will start in an instant.


An engine that causes problems if there is any problem. An engine that runs comfortably and runs smoothly will also be a barometer of health.


However, the reason why the car is in good condition is that there is no reason to mess with the car, so I feel lonely again.


A car that you are attached to, something that you always want to play with.

And if things get too good, they will have to make various modifications to mess with them.

In order to prevent such extra expenses, we will leave some defects! ??


excuse?


Originally, the manager who was not very interested in cars.

When I bought this car 18 years ago, I was so amateur that I had never even replaced the fan belt.

In this way, as I was messing around with the car every day, I gained wisdom about the car, became attached to it, and made the car even more enjoyable.



 

11. What do you think of recent cars?


Recent cars and high-tech equipment are amazing.

So even if you play around with it, it's hard to play with it because everything is covered with computers.

Furthermore, driving is automatic.

Driving an automatic transmission is frustrating because the mission does not work as expected even if it is driving. "Why do you kick back here! ???" "Don't move on your own!"

If you drive a long distance with such an automatic transmission, your left half of your body will be tied up for a long time! There is too much work to do, and on the contrary, driving gets tired.

I'm drowsy and I don't think it's good for my body or my head.


The fun will be halved because you don't have the feeling of manipulating it the way you want.

Is it necessary to drive automatically because driving is boring and makes me sleepy?

You won't be attached to a car that you can't enjoy, and it's only natural that you can get a good deal on your car, which is just a means of transportation.


If automatic driving functions become widespread and the enjoyment of driving is taken away by computers, it will be completely different from conventional cars.


A car that is becoming more and more rare, fun to play with, and fun to drive

My car, Land Cruiser Trupy 75, will continue to be important and I will continue to ride it for a long time.





Until the end Thank you for reading.


 

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