This blog is written by a photographer living in Nairobi, Kenya.
LandCruiser HZJ75 is a genuine car that he has been riding for 21 years since 2002.
The car model is Toyota, Land Cruiser HZJ75, Troop Carrier, commonly known as Troopy, made in 1991.
This car was active in the Turkana area in northern Kenya at World Vision until the I bought it.
Now it's in much better shape than when I first bought it.
Especially after changing the thermostat from 76°C to 82°C, the fuel economy has improved and the power has been stable all the time.
Long-distance fuel economy record 9.9km/L before the thermostat was replaced, 11.9km/L knocked out. This is a record of a downhill section from Nairobi to Mariakani, 430km, 1200m elevation.
I was very surprised because I didn't expect engine temperature to affect fuel consumption so far.
In fact, the fuel economy should be even better, because the gauge on the unused side of the two fuel tanks increased slightly as I drove.
Fuel is believed to have been pumped into the unused tank through a pipe that allows fuel not used by the engine to return to the fuel tank again. Malfunction of the so-called switch.
How many kilometers are you actually running?
And one more thing, engine oil is directly linked to fuel efficiency and engine condition.
The car is 31 years old, but the more it runs, the better it gets.
Fuel consumption, power and quietness.
The car doesn't run much for their age. The mileage is about to reach 240,000 kilometers on the gauge, but there is no doubt that the true mileage is more. At the time of purchase, the mileage was 100,000 km on the gauge, but the timing belt replacement guide sticker, which is replaced every 100,000 km, said that the next replacement would be 250,000 km.
It seems that the 1HZ engine is in good condition after it exceeds 100,000 km, and it gets better after 200,000 km.
This is greatly influenced by engine oil.
So this time I write about an engine oil.
In this blog, I will consider the engine oil I have used so far and its performance based on my experience.
*The engine oil used is limited to the oil that is commonly available at the oil stand in Kenya, and the name of the oil is also Kenyan.
*Please note that the condition of the engine is subjective by the manager.
*Furthermore, it contains delusions, so please don't take it seriously.
About 20 years ago, in Kenya, recycled engine oil was put in plastic tanks with the manufacturer's logo, and was sold as if it were genuine.
If you put that kind of oil in, it's not going to be good.
Performance is Bad.
At the time, even I was an amateur about cars could understand.
I was often told not to buy engine oil at a store, but at a stand.
The reason is to avoid grabbing recycled items. But I dared to try it once.
How often do you change engine oil?
The engine oil was changed every 2500km at the time of purchase
Engine oil has been changed almost every 2500km from the time of purchase.
Recently, I judge by looking at the condition of the engine, between 3000km and 5000km.
Specified by the manufacturer, the manual says to replace it every 5000km, but in harsh environments, replace it every 2500km It has become.
Over 2000 meters above sea level,
Rough road, off-road driving,
Many short-distance runs, etc.
Nairobi is 1700m, my home is 1800m, and western Kenya has several passes over 2500m. There were many rough roads and many short-distance drivers, so the environment where my car is placed is a harsh environment.
So, according to the manual, the engine oil was changed every 2500km.
Engine oil was cheap back then.
Even if you replace the oil filter, it costs US$30.
Buy 11 liters of oil for this price.
The person who taught me various things about the car at that time also recommended 2500km.
Engine oil types and performance
It is a long time ago, my memory of that time is vague, so please bear with me.
The oil used was single grade SAE 40.
I was doing it with the motto of changing cheap oil frequently.
Generally speaking, in the days when single grade oil was commonly used in Kenya, multigrade oil was also 10W-30.
Some time since 2002.
*All engine oils in this article are mineral oil.
Nairobi doesn't have cold winters, so there's no particular problem with a single grade.
Anyway, the janitor who didn't know anything about cars at the time, engine oil wouldn't make much difference! What a feeling. I changed the cheapest engine oil every 2500 km.
However, while listening to the story of the LandCruiser owners and trying various types of engine oil, I learned that the performance of the engine changed by changing the oil.
Basically, I used Caltex, Delo Gold SAE40, but the engine was very good despite being cheap.
I tried using another company's oil with the same viscosity, but this is the best.
Maybe Ruvia Classic after that? Certainly. Although it has become a Total brand, I think that the contents are probably the same oil. The cheapest engine oil for the same price.
Looking at the description, it was for both gasoline and diesel engines.
I tried various things for a while, but in the end I settled on this engine oil with good cost performance.
*I'm writing this from memory, so please understand that there may be mistakes.
I've tried DELO 6200, SAE 40, a higher grade oil several times, but it doesn't seem to be compatible with my car's 1HZ engine.
Immediately after the replacement, the start idle, especially first thing in the morning, was not stable.
Engine revs heavily.
After about 1000 Km, you'll get used to it and the idle will become stable.
Why? Sludge inside the engine, carbon, and dirt are mixed in, and the viscosity will be just right.
possibly that the viscosity was too strong.
It was probably designed for an old heavy-duty truck engine, as advertised.
I think it's an engine oil that will keep the engine running well even after running a very long distance.
It was not suitable for the 1HZ engine of my car.
This engine oil is now branded as Lubia 6200 under the TOTAL brand.
Was it API-SE?
Sorry if I'm wrong.
Unrelated, but it was an oil that would damage the paint if it dripped onto the head cover plastic.
It seems that the alkaline component is strong.
After a few uses, I put the cheapest Derogold back in and the engine ran fine.
Derogold or Ruvia, Classic, the cheapest oil, best match for my car, and it worked great.
Multigrade 10w-30 gone bad
Once, I put in 10w30 shell oil, which is a little more expensive, but it made the engine run worse, so I quickly switched back to single grade.
The symptoms are white smoke when starting in the morning, unstable idling, and a feeling of no power even when running. On the contrary, the viscosity of this engine oil seems to be too soft.
After some experimenting, I found that the engine had just the right oil viscosity.
Also, even with the same engine, the best engine oil will change depending on the mileage, ring and piston conditions.
This 10W-30 seems to work fine with the new 1HZ engine, but it has gotten worse with my old car. I asked the LandCruiser owner and tried it and figured it out.
This experience convinced me that multigrade oils were not good for older 1HZ engines, and I never used multigrade until recently.
I've been using SAE40 grade for a long time, but the owner of a good car parts store told me 15w-40 is good for a 1HZ engine!
Hearing that, I tried 15w-40 oil, and it was the best match for my car old 1HZ engine.
Best match for 1HZ! 15W-40
How did it get better?
The engine has reduced noise from low to high revs and has become smoother.
Even when going up a mountain pass, I was able to pull it smoothly and powerfully until the high rev without feeling unreasonable.
Even at the start of the morning in cold weather, it rotates smoothly as soon as it starts. Almost no white smoke was generated morning start time.
Idle is also stable, and it became possible to set the idle speed even lower, which led to reduced fuel consumption and stronger engine braking.
Engine temperature is now kept cooler when climbing a pass.
Very, very good for my 1HZ engine,
I can't go back to SAE40 single grade after knowing this.
There are 2 Total bland 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil,
Lubia XT API CF4/SJ bit cheaper
Lubia TIR There is a 7400 API CL4/SL more expensive
1HZ best match engine oil, Lubia TIR 7400 and Lubia XT
Verifying the difference by using Rubia XT and RUBIA TIR 7400 alternately
The properties of each oil
Long range performance
Rubia TIR 7400 maintains higher performance over long distances
The Rubia XT starts to feel sluggish after about 3000km.
Failure can be felt from the instability of idle immediately after starting, some white smoke, and noise at high revs.
It's still small at 3000km, maybe I'll run up to 4000km and change the oil.
As the engine oil gets weaker, the engine oil will gradually decrease, so this is also a guideline for replacement.
*Please keep in mind that everything is the characteristic of the old 1HZ engine of my car.
The Rubia TIR 7400 doesn't sag at all, even after 3000km.
In terms of feeling, it runs 5000km, which is about the same as the Rubia XT's 3000km fatigue.
I feel like I can still go beyond 5000km, but I'd like to replace it with 5000km for insurance purposes.
Since sludge, carbon, etc. are accumulated even if the oil is not weakened, replace it.
By the way, the single-grade Delo Gold and Lubia Classic started to wear out after about 2500km.
Performance
In terms of performance, the TIR7400 turns more smoothly up to high revs.
However, it feels like running about 1000km after the oil change and getting in good condition.
Since it becomes slightly unstable immediately after replacement, I increase the engine idle speed slightly.
When you run about 1000 km distance, the oil will become familiar and it will become smoother, so you can narrow down the idle.
Why is it that the oil should perform better when it is new?
I set engine idle speed as low speed as possible in smooth movement.
Prioritizing fuel efficiency, engine braking effectiveness, and low-speed stable driving, the idle speed is reduced as much as possible, especially when descending a steep slope on a bad road, and the engine brake can run stably and slowly.
I set the idle speed sometimes according to the condition of the engine.
Compared to that, the Lubia XT has been working fine since the replacement.
Is the reason related to viscosity? ? ?
However, after switching from Lubia XT to Lubia TIR 7400, engine oil began to seep from the head gasket.
Even mineral oil is imagined to be a smaller molecular polymer.
If I put some synthetic oil in it, it will seep out more.
I'm thinking about using liquid gaskets and silicone on the head gaskets to prevent leaks. The gasket is using a genuine one, but the engine oil has leaked.
I am planning to do this work with valve clearance inspection and adjustment together.
I will write about it in this blog.
The oil with a viscosity of 40 did not leak at all.
More advanced grades include Lubia TIR 8200 10W-40, a synthetic oil, Total's finest diesel oil.
But it's expensive and 10W seems too soft and doesn't work well with older 1HZ, so I haven't tested it yet.
I'm thinking of trying it eventually, but I'm hesitant because I remember the old 10W-30 soft oil.
Extremely bad third-party oil
I tried a third-party oil once, and the engine ran out of control.
Even idle speed has added much, The engine almost stops at idle on a slope, so I have to press the accelerator a little.
The acceleration is bad, black smoke is generated,
Even at high revs, the engine was noisy and vibrating, so I could only run gently.
I Never use this engine oil again! It may or may not have been recycled, but I bought it at a stand.
Since there are such bad oils on the market, I hesitate to use other companies' oils and adventures.
I dare not say which oil.
Total has never let me down when it comes to gearboxes, transfers, diffs, or even grease, regardless of engine oil.
Furthermore, Kenya's total, service is very good and reasonable.
I always use it.
Clean the old oil from the oil filter holder and change the oil
Change the oil yourself
By the way, when I change the engine oil, I spend the night at home and thoroughly remove the old oil and add new engine oil the next day. Change the filter every time so that there is no old oil left.
Wipe the filter holder clean as shown in the photo above and install a new oil filter.
Before draining the oil, run it once to warm up the engine enough and soften the oil enough.
For the time being, I've been writing about engine oil as it comes to mind, but I'm still thinking of adding something that comes to my mind.
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